Below is an update to the previous tests of creating a shallow depth of field in post production. I have to say I am very happy with the results. It is the same concept of utilizing shape layers to mask the different levels of depth and simple blurs connected to expression sliders, but now I use the matte choker to soften and blend the blurred edges. I plan on creating a video tutorial when time permits. I also might try this technique with a little more dynamic/exciting footage as well...will keep you posted.
Shallow DOF in Post Final from Daniel Holland on Vimeo.
Utilizing the vibrating 35mm adapter tutorial and parts from jetsetmodels.info these tutorials detail the build process. I find these tutorials very informative as the guys building this have not built one previously and we get a look at issues and questions that come up along the way. Very much a must watch if you plan on building a vibrating adapter. The parts can be sourced from jetsetmodels.info and ebay (see links below).
35mm Adapter Tutorial Walkthrough 1 from Martin Frericks on Vimeo.
35mm Adapter Tutorial Walkthrough 2 from Martin Frericks on Vimeo.
Parts III and IV to follow shortly.
Macro Extension Tubes
Canon EE-A/EE-S Focusing Screen
Canon EE-A Focusing Screen $29.99
Canon EE-S Focusing Screen $27.99
With this tradition in mind, I present the two fundamental principles behind the Steadicam and show you how to build your own Flying Camera Support."
- All lens manufacturers/brands provide different lens types
- The wider you can open your aperture the more light you can utilize for an adapter
- For an adapter you want a manual lens or at the least a lens that can be switched to manual
- Each lens type produces different results and in most cases you would want to switch between lenses depending on your desired shot.
HV20.com forum member sdeming shares with us his DIY static adapter he built for $80.
1. Electrical pvc 2'' connectors that thread together. Total cost $3.00 (found at menards)(pictured below)
2. The SH-51EE found on Jetsetmodels.info site. Total cost $30.00 with shipping.
3. Canon EE-a or EE-s focusing screen. I found mine on ebay for $40.00
4. A UV Filter 52mm. Again, I found mine on ebay for $8.00
5. A Step ring 52mm to what ever you lens is. Mine is a 42m, so I bought that for $3.00 on you guessed it, ebay!
6. An achromat, I had mine from an old camera, and I don't consider this part of the expense, because on my adapter, it can be taken off and used as a macro lens. You can also find on ebay.
7. Hot glue. I found a gun at Menards for $5.00 with the glue. 8. 2'' PVC pipe, as small as you can buy it. I found mine for $2.00 at menards.
How to construct
1. First, you'll need to cut down the male and female pvc parts to 1/2 inch from the outside edge. THE NON-THREADED PARTS ONLY!
2. Paint them matte black inside and out, but do not paint the threads. I covered them with electrical tape prior to painting and it worked well.
3. The female pvc piece (the one with the treads on the inside) holds your lens. Here's how, first you'll need to take the 2'' pvc and make a vertical cut about 4'' long on a table or miter saw. Then, on a miter saw cut off two pieces from the end about 1/4 inch. Do it in this order, otherwise the small 1/4 ring will shatter and you may get hurt. BE SAFE! Here's what you'll end up with.
4. Take your step ring that that goes from 52mm to whatever you adapter threads or quarter turns into. and on the 52mm size, wrap the pvc around it like so:
5. press this into the 1/2 non threaded side of the female pvc section, like so:I tapped it in with a level to make sure it was in there straight(but it shouldn't matter if you cut your 1/4 piece of pvc straight).
6. Glue the ring in, not too much, just enough to make sure no dust gets in there.
7. Screw on your lens
8. Now we're working the male piece of pvc. So, to make sure you're all lined up, I used scotch tape as a temporary gg and put an x in the center of the tape.
9. Push the gg holder with the (cut out side facing the camera) into your male piece of pvc.
10. Now, screw the two pieces together and I found that you're going to leave about three threads exposed for the proper focal distance. Hold up your adapter to some light and adjust your lens and focal distance till you get a crisp image on something close and far away.
11. Screw in your 43mm step ring and mark the top of the adapter with a pencil
12. Mark the top of your camera and step ring with a pencil too
13. Remove the tape from the gg holder.
14. Glue in gg holder
15. Glue in lens (small beads in the corners only!).
16. Remove your 43mm step ring from the front of the camera.
17. Screw the step ring into your uv lens.
18. Take your second piece of 2'' pvc
19. Use a dremil or sand paper and sand down the inside untill you can wrap it around your uv lens and fit inside the non threaded side of the male adapter.
20. place it inside
21. Place the uv lens and the stet ring inside next, lining up the marks you made with the pencil.
22. Holdup the male piece to your camera, lining up the marks, and make sure your still aligned. Just make sure it looks square.
23. If all is well glue in the uv filter only, not the step ring. Make sure there's no dust. If you want, buy two uv filters, pop the glass out of one of them and glue that in, then uv lens will just thread in on that. This way, you can clean the gg if you need to.
24. here it is with the achromat, with removes vignetting, and since you don't have to zoom in as much, removes some camera shake.
25. Enjoy! Here's a screen capture of some weeds by an old farm house.
I'd like to introduce the Apefos 35mm adapter. This is a vibrating adapter that can suite larger and smaller camcorders. It has a unique design, however looks to be bulky and most likely heavier, however it does include a support. Also, having a sturdy adapter might not be a negative thing in the long run.
The Apefos 35mm Kit
Footage from the Apestos 35MM
Apefos HV20 and Tamron 17-35 f2.8-4 lens from apefos on Vimeo.
Apefos HV20 and ASANUMA 35-105 f3.5 lens from apefos on Vimeo.
A Grade - The Grating - APEFOS from apefos on Vimeo.
For more information
REDROCK MICRO M2 on ebay!
I recently came across this tutorial. The entire build is fairly unique as far as part sources. The ground glass is from a old digital camera's LCD, but a cell phone LCD also has a matte material within the LCD that can be used. I know I have a box of old useless cell phones from the years sitting at home...and never realized I could utilize them. Also the vibrating ground glass holder is just an old plastic VHS tape box. The vibrating support rods are just q-tips(yes q-tips)...all in all a pretty inventive way to keep costs down and still get nice results. The tutorial is in French, but I feel it is pretty straight forward.
creer 35mm vibrant
So you have footage that you feel would benefit from shallow depth of field, except everything was shot with a wide depth of field...what do you do? I have developed a few methods of producing the look of shallow depth of field in post utilizing After Effects CS3. Below you will find sample footage based on one method of tracking motion, then using shape layers as track mattes and expressions to control blur. Another method is to create custom depth maps to use with the lens blur filter, however using this method you take a huge hit in rendering time and resources. I plan on producing a 2 or 3 part tutorial on these methods, but until completed, I thought I'd provide some sample footage showing that it is possible to achieve this in post production with decent results.
Shot with an HVX200.
DOF created in Post
Now obviously it is always more convincing, especially to the trained eye, to shot with a shallow depth of field. Unfortunately you don't always have this option. I can think of two scenarios where this could be useful. The first is you did not shoot the footage or had no control over footage that was shot. The second would be if the video was shot with a wide DOF for effect to be composited...and now the effects are there, but the depth isn't...
DOF in Post [no 35mm Adapter] from Daniel Holland on Vimeo.
Please comment below :)
Just a quick note that the Opteka 10x HD² Professional Macro Lens is currently on sale at Amazon for $29.95 (originally $79.95). I've about this before. The Opteka makes a great alternative to high-end achromats for your DIY 35mm adapters. Ideal for small consumer HD camcorders. This is the cheapest I have seen this macro (goes for $39.95 on eBay), so this is a good deal.
Below is another excellent tutorial from Videopedia. This goes into 35mm adapters ups and downs and why you might need one. A must watch!
35mm Lens Adapters from Videopia on Vimeo.
Links from Tutorial
Okay, if you are like me you are probably wondering how it is possible for the Letus Ultimate to jump $3000+ higher than the other Letus models. If you head over to this blog they feature the "Ultimate Autopsy. Here they overview the Letus Ultimate and crack it open to see what makes it tick. That is when the reasoning for the price leap becomes more apparent...
I recently came across some good deals on 35mm adapters on eBay. eBay auctions are a good opportunity to find 35mm adapters for a better price including Redrock Micro, Brevis, Cine, Letus, and others. Check it out.
* Weighs only 1 lb 9 oz
* Hand held balance. No support rods needed (hold the adapter and the camera and SLR lens will balance nicely)
* Travel sized adapter
* Great adapter when space is limited.
* New prism technology with proprietary Image Orientation Correction technology (IOC). This adapter "flips" the image upright
* Highest optical grade achromatic lens (custom-made for this specific adapter)
* Custom condenser specially tailored for this adapter to get the best possible picture quality
* 16:9 native aspect ratio
* For cameras with a filter size of 43mm or smaller
* New and improved Ground Glass element
* Beautiful film-look bokeh
* Absolutely no vignetting
* Best edge-to-edge sharpness in the industry
* Stunningly beautiful image colors
* Casing milled from solid aluminum
* Anodized black finish
* A sleek, built-in On/Off indicator with LED
* Battery is fully enclosed and secured by magnets for ease of replacement during a shoot
* Virtually silent vibration system that will not interfere with microphones
* Alignment is a breeze with the new and improved thread ring design
* Comes with your choice of one free mount (Canon FD, Nikon AI, Canon EF (EOS), Pentax K mount, Minolta MD)
* PL mount and OCT19 mount also available at a discounted price if selected as the primary mount on the Mini.
* Hex key for adjustment/installation
* End caps included for protection during transport/storage
* Light switch in the back to avoid distraction to those in front of camera
* Threaded holes on the front of the tube for matching up to support systems
* Custom support bracket available for those wanting to use a rods support system
* One year warranty
I recently came across this tutorial by Jorge A. Sepulveda. You might have seen his tutorial on building a static adapter, he has recently put out a two part video tutorial on building a vibrating adapter. Although it isn't really refined, the basic concepts are there and the footage from the adapter is very comparable to others. This is the most in-depth video tutorial on a vibrating adapter I have come across yet. Enjoy! Feel free to comment on the video below. Thank you!
I recently came across this great depth of field tutorial by D. Eric Franks for "Videopedia". Eric also has a series for Digital Juice television (DJTV) called "Tech Know". His videos are always informative and valuable. This time he is tackling depth of field and also offers a solution/trick to achieve depth of field with just your DV camera...no adapter. This is a must watch! Please comment on the video below. Thank you!
DoF Demystified from Videopia on Vimeo.